// Body conscious

Posted on | May 9, 2010 | 2 Comments

Yes, I have lost some weight, but I’m still not too confident with body conscious silhouettes for quite obvious reasons — and I doubt that whatever range my weight settles, doing bodyconscious dressing will probably not be my thing. But I could not resist on toying with this bargain corset I got from eBay last autumn — it is a superb detailed garment and so far it has been here in one drawing only. I doubt that I will never fully showcase it as a part of an outfit, but I like the idea of exposing it partially, this time like a low slung extra wide corset “belt”.

I built this outfit thinking about going out to relatively casual places… …so I’m wearing Cheap Monday pale blue jeans, sheer H&M vest over the corset which is worn in such a way that I can sit comfortably, and I turned the garters underneath to tone down its underwearishness. I really like how the elastics have yellowed from pure white to ivory, it makes combining this piece much more interesting. The lace biker is from H&M, too — and those suede booties are from my Berlin trip. I could not find the white American Apparel ruched top which would have extended the line of the corset under the sheer top layer, so that’s the explanation for black. And this was a test drive anyway…

I doubt that I will never go out like this — but if I change the top part to something very loose and short enough to let the corset peek from underneath… …yes, that might be the solution…

Posted on | May 9, 2010 | 2 Comments

// Everyday floral

Posted on | April 10, 2010 | 6 Comments

Oh, nothing special this time, but I like to keep these everyday wear posts going on — and not all of my everyday stuff is layered nor particularly creative. On Thursday I wore this nice cotton vintage dress to work, with H&M silk slip (I really like unlined dresses and separate slips), opaque tights and Vagabond OTK boots. I have an old metal bead choker wrapped twice to my wrist. But that’s about it. Super simple.

I would love to wear just the mongolian lamb vest on top of the dress when going out (and roll the sleeves down)… …but unfortunately it is not that warm yet.

Posted on | April 10, 2010 | 6 Comments

// Wearing the haori

Posted on | April 9, 2010 | 4 Comments

I have photographed just one actual outfit this week (bit busy week at work plus it has been so cloudy and dark) … but in addition to that I had to experiment a bit how I’m planning to implant the kimono stuff to my actual outfits. I really sought out another haori, a simple men’s style and in color that is totally lacking in my wardrobe: maroon. The maroon / ivory weave of this silk looks so exquisite, I really love it. I think I need third — a long one — made from softly draping silk, to be worn when lounging at home and maybe also as a dress…

I’m wearing the husband jeans ™ (old Acnes), Castañer wedges and an old Filippa-K vest with understated transparency detail, AA tube bra underneath. I also plan to layer the haoris with my old FCUK dark jean jacket, but I need to wash it once or twice to be sure that the color won’t bleed.

And I thought that it would be just fair to photograph the ratty Topshop bag — I have been carrying it with me almost every day for several years now and it has served so well. Truth is that I love it but our relationship kind of reminds me of an old marriage… …which is not necessarily a bad thing after all.

The red little monster peeking under the jacket is the tying cord, actually…

Posted on | April 9, 2010 | 4 Comments

// Vintage find

Posted on | March 31, 2010 | 6 Comments

I’ve done some great second hand finds this winter — and the nomination for the most beautiful one goes easily to this mint green, sparely flowered kimono. Or to be more exact, this is actually a haori jacket, used as top layer over a kimono. It is made of pretty awesome handpainted heavyweight silk and it has traditional half lining with a matching fabric. I will provide some detail shots later with first actual outfit post — but that will probably take a while, this one is not for rainy weather we are currently experiencing here.

And no, I’m not going to wear it like this… …I’m planning to layer it over my dark jean jacket (that one still needs a wash or two, I need to be certain that there will be no color transfer) or a second hand oversized denim shirt; to relatively casual outfits to tone it down. I like the idea, the simple shape and the quality fabric so much that I’m definitely going to get another one, with very different fabric. The men’s versions are often more simple with no painted or embroidered details, and that’s what I’m after — they usually have some subtle small scale woven pattern with colors like blue, gray and maroon, often combined to white or ecru — very easy to combine to prints and solids.

Naturally this was not my idea — I think that it was actually Susie Bubble who opened my eyes for these. Before that I remember seeing Catherine Baba wearing a kimono beautifully… …but that was not enough to cause any action here, though.

The bracelet is silver petal necklace from Efva Attling worn doubled, the suede belt is familiar from some previous outfit post — and oh yes, it is from Vero Moda, I found a faded print inside. A vintage slip underneath.

You can find several sellers from Etsy — this one is from SeskasPlace — I warmly recommend her shop! But there is more, check for example KimonoMomo and Togei.

And guess what. These are not expensive at all.

Posted on | March 31, 2010 | 6 Comments

// Vintage how-to — fur

Posted on | January 3, 2010 | 34 Comments

Ok. I just wonder if it is possible to write about fur without saying what you think about it. I have stated my opinion here earlier, but I will do it again, just in case. But this is not opinion post, this is about choosing, caring, maintaining and repairing second hand fur.

I think that keeping and killing animals just for fur does not fit to contemporary society, I don’t want to encourage it and for that reason I would never consider new fur. But on the other hand I am carnivorous — and I sure hope that all parts of the animal end up in good use — including skin and fur. So, maybe I could consider for example lamb fur — but so far I haven’t bought any new fur garments.

I also wish that everything that human being has manufactured will be used to it’s full value. For that reason I like the idea of using second hand fur, until it falls apart. The material lasts for generations if handled well and the use value of fur is really good in this northern climate.

For all valuable fur I strongly suggest professional care. But you can get lesser quality second hand fur for bargain prices — and in that case you might be curious to mend and maintain it yourself. If you have at least a bit common sense and some basic skills in sewing, I truly encourage you to try rather than leave the precious material to deteriorate, the maintenance adds up years, maybe tens of years to the furs mileage.

How to pick a good fur from charity shop?

When you evaluate the condition of the fur in the second hand shop, the hair itself tells a little. Usually fur retains it’s shine and softness easily.

You should pay more attention to the leather under the hair. Does it feel soft and supple — or brittle and hard, or paper like? Does it leave dust or more coarse residue to your hands? Can you find tears, usually from seams, check especially underarm, middle back, side seams, elbows and around the collar. Does the fur shed hair?

If there are no major tears and the hair seems to be relatively well attached to the skin even brittle skinned, hardened or slightly papery fur can be saved. Note that some furs are relatively prone for shedding even in decent condition, rabbit is a good example.

Check also marks of possible insect damage (small, usually round holes, broken hair or bald spots in small but distinct areas) and staining, with pale fur especially around the collar. To see possible yellowing you might need to see the fur in natural light, tungsten light is so warm colored that it can camouflage light yellowing. See also sleeve openings and inner collar, these areas can be dirty and/or badly worn.

Everyday care for all fur

Never storage your fur in plastic — and don’t use mothballs or cedar or any other substances with strong smells to preserve it. If moths are nuisance in your apartment you should take your fur coat to professional storage for summertime. In Finland moths are not a big problem (personally I have never encountered those), but even here the professional storage might be good idea, especially if you live in modern apartment with dry, air conditioned air — it is just too dry to keep the fur in top shape. Both excessive dryness and excessive moisture are bad for fur. Dryness makes the skin age fast and it comes brittle and prone to tearing, moisture encourages the insects and — in bad cases — mold. Cool space is better for fur storage than warm.
Let your fur to breathe. Use a sturdy, wide shouldered hangar for it and be sure to not to squeeze it between other garments. Avoid hanging stuff over the fur and if you bag the fur for storage, use fabric pouch or uncolored paper pouch for protection, never plastic. You can even add some tissue paper inside the collar (make a sort of extra collar out of it, so that it raises the pouch slightly to the air) to avoid pressure and protect the shoulders.
Avoid carrying your bag on shoulder when wearing fur.
If the fur gets wet in a rain, no problem. Just shake excess water out of it and let it dry freely in normal room temperature. Don’t use heat. If the fur is soaked, take it to the professional when it has dried.
Small stains can be removed from fur with Marseille soap and bit of water — or 50/50 water-rubbing alcohol mixture. You need a sponge or cloth that does not stain or leave any residue. When using soap and water, don’t wet the fur. Just keep the sponge lightly moist and rub the stain so that the soap makes just a bit foam. In the end rinse the sponge well and remove all foam residue with moist sponge (you might need rinse the sponge several times and keep stroking the fur with moist sponge). With alcohol the process is essentially same, moisten the sponge with mixture and squeeze excess of it out. Rub the stain carefully, no need to rinse. You can always test your method of cleaning to some hidden place, this might be wise especially with dyed fur.
A professional can condition your fur, this should be done in 2 – 3 years intervals to keep the fur in top shape. The brittleness of the skin means that you need to hurry.
Finland is not exactly a paradise for second hand shopper. Well edited second hand boutiques are sparse and relatively expensive, charity shops are stinky and full of crap (FYI, personally I prefer these smelly, full of crap places to well edited — and well priced ones, anytime. Nothing beats the joy of real bargain find!). But you can find great fur here in bargain prices. I guess that because of this miserable climate (-26 degrees Celsius today) the fur has been a staple in Finnish wardrobe. And lots of good stuff has been carried to charity shops. I picked my gray rabbit fur from Valtteri flea market for 10€ — and that one is real quality fur. The coat you see in the first image is from UFF 5€ days, although furs were bit more expensive, maybe that 10€. Both are great places for bargain fur finds in Helsinki, and you can also try Salvation Army charity shops.

DIY conditioning & repairing after the jump

Posted on | January 3, 2010 | 34 Comments

// Vintage fix, pick and mix

Posted on | January 3, 2010 | 2 Comments

Salty

A great jumpsuit from Glamom’s Closet. I don’t have a single jumpsuit in my wardrobe.

Quilted little skirt from Tapouillon Vintage.

And a leather skirt with awesome cut from GoodEye.

Party like it is *insert your favorite decade here* in this timeless Bill Blass dress. From Absolutely Riveting.

Oh, the eighties boldness, sweet at it’s best. Jacket from Boston Vintage.

Sweet

Ah, fifties sweetness… …what can I say. From Pure Vintage.

Tie dye knit lace dress from I Miss YOU.

Beautiful lace skirt from Ramblin’ Vintage. Longer lengths look so fresh right now — plus I love her golden flats with the skirt. Oh, gold looks so good!

Floral cotton for spring, yes! From Rose and Jane.

Sculptural pleats in delicate ivory, oh my! From Rose and Jane.

Posted on | January 3, 2010 | 2 Comments

// Vintage lace vibe emerging

Posted on | December 18, 2009 | 4 Comments

Lately I have been thinking about incorporating some vintage lace to some of my DIY projects. Considering the handwork involved the prices for antique lace pieces can be shamefully bargainous. My favorites from antique laces are different variations of needlepoint lace — that technique allows amazing freeform designs — and different variations of tape lace where simple (machine made or in the early versions handwoven) tape forms patterns that are connected with needlepoint techniques. The tape brings some dimensionality and structure for the lace, I really like the look. Both techniques allow very ornate designs, but the result is not necessarily particularly dainty. These lace types are also relatively durable. Antique lace can be easily dyed (they are usually made from cotton or silk, sometimes linen), but I would advise avoiding cutting it if you are not familiar with the lace type (and even then…). Purchase a piece that fits, or can be folded/ruffled to fit.

needlepoint2
Two needlepoint examples, first from mmmoonchild, second from Deepwater.

tapelace
Beautiful tape lace collar in excellent condition from mmmoonchild.

One thing I just can’t forgive myself is that I let this awesome tape lace bolero slip away from me. Although it is quite simple in lacework terms (not too much those time consuming connection stitches in between the tapes) the fact that the whole lace design is constructed to the actual patterns makes it truly stunning. If I don’t remember wrong the seller asked some ridiculous 70 dollars for it… …and look at its gorgeousness! How magnificent black layer would that be? What can we learn here: if you see a gorgeous vintage piece online in right size, buy it and cry for the credit later. It will pass and your credit will heal. This sorrow won’t.
tapelace2

And because there is no denying of my handcraft geekery, I’m embedding here an awesome little video from Kenmare Lace & Design Centre, charmingly enthusiastic Nora Finnegan tells something about the history of Kenmare lace and shows the basic needlepoint technique. There is a whole series of these, about needlepoint on netting, bobbin lace, tape lace… …if you are interested just follow the link to YouTube and watch them all.

Edit.
dior

Edit. speaking of bargains, if you are vintage size four, meaning in this case that 32 inches is enough to go around your bust, go on and grab this amazing Dior jacket from Stock in Trade. The seller asks *sic* 22 dollars. I’m considering a new career as an eBay blood sucker.

Posted on | December 18, 2009 | 4 Comments

// Cocoon like

Posted on | November 27, 2009 | 2 Comments

cocoon1 cocoon3 cocoon2

I have been in a terrible flu — and today was the first day within over a week I went out little bit further than getting some necessary groceries from the market across the street. It felt good to put some decent stuff on, and I probably got bit dressier than usual. Nah, not really!

Almost all stuff is pretty familiar, but this illustrates quite well one thing I do quite often. I like to pile on similar garments, it creates nice rhythm to outfits. It can be scarves, shirts… …this time it was cocoon like shapes in a form of oversized t-shirt dress, oversized shrug and vintage stole. The whole thing also matched perfectly to my mood — bit touchy-feely, but on the other hand very happy to get stronger an healthier again!

Babooshka boutique maxi shirt, second hand leather skirt (it is actually in the middle of little hemming project but the raw hem miced pretty well with ripped nylons), A.F. Vandeforst shrug, second hand stole, bracelet from H&M, Rützou wedges.

And sorry, I was too lazy for tripod — again…

Posted on | November 27, 2009 | 2 Comments

// Vintage how-to — understanding materials

Posted on | November 24, 2009 | 21 Comments

I’m planning on posting a series about how to take care of vintage garments. The subsequent posts will be shorter and more easy to digest, but I wanted to include the fabric basics to this one post. So enjoy — or suffer, this first one really is a lengthy one!

One quite common problem with vintage clothing is identifying the materials. Wash tags might have been removed, or the piece is hand sewn and they never existed. Vintage boutique keepers usually have a good educated guess about the materials, so don’t forget to ask. But you can develop you own skills in this as well. Read more

Posted on | November 24, 2009 | 21 Comments

// And the darkness falls upon thee

Posted on | October 23, 2009 | 2 Comments

Ok, I’m munching down my lunch here and pondering the recent practical problems of blogging. This morning it was so dark that my camera could not even focus. And when I quickly browsed through the images taken with manual focus I decided to give up this time. That’s too bad, because I had a special theme in mind for todays post: from work to party.

I’m wearing a simple base of Gina Trickot leather look leggings and a black sheer Acne T-shirt. I added a metallic bronze pleated vintage Dior skirt on top of that (it’s much more bronze than it looks like in that image). It is long enough to wear as a dress and so I did. The neckline was lightly camouflaged with Marimekko for H&M giant disc neclace with orange, black and olive green patterned fabric. Anette Görtz jacket makes a nice top layer that tones the metallic dress down to the work and disquisess the “skressness” of my skirt as a dress. A.F. Vandevorst shrug adds some warmth, this time I wore it asymmetrically with only one sleeve on, the other half just rolled around the neck. And the Rützou wedges.

leatherlook 5018200810413152743656158_L il_fullxfull_93949426 marikoru necklush1-525x349 slashed1-525x787 rutzou-ankle-boot

Posted on | October 23, 2009 | 2 Comments

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About

Location: Helsinki, Finland

Contact: kamicha (a) gmail dot com

I'm especially interested in young designers creations, non-established labels and indie fashion. So if you have something interesting to show, feel free to contact!

You can find Finnish design from both specific and some outfit posts - but both are tagged.

You might be also interested in DIY posts, How-to posts, DIY ideas - or my adventures in Etsy =).

More about me and this blog.